Climbing / Canyoneering

Climbing, Bouldering, Canyoneering and Ice climbing are fabulous in Castle Country. There are many places in our deserts and mountains that seem like nature designed them just for these sports.

Here is a small sampling of what Castle Country has to offer. Before heading out to climb, boulder or canyoneer, please consult a complete guide with ascent paths, equipment requirements, and experience ratings. The College of Eastern Utah Prehistoric Museum bookstore, in Price, sells many helpful guidebooks.

Straight Canyon: Bouldering
Location: near Joe's Valley Reservoir.
In Straight Canyon there are hundreds of large boulders. They are covered with weathered holes great for traversing.

Spring Canyon: Climbing
Location: near Helper of US Highway 6
In the historic ghost town region of Spring Canyon west of Helper, there are several good climbs. At the base of one of these cliffs is evidence of some ancient Fremont rock art.

San Rafael Swell: Climbing
In the San Rafael Swell there literally are hundreds of excellent places to rock climb. Several comprehensive books on climbs in the San Rafael Swell are available for purchase at the College of Eastern Utah Prehistoric Museum and other bookstores. Here is a sampling of a few good climbs.

Buckhorn Wash: There are at least 25 locations to climb in the Buckhorn Wash area. Here are two or three.
Scenic Byway Wall: Approaching from the north Scenic Byway Wall is 2.5 miles south of the entrance to Buckhorn Wash. From the sough the wall is 7.5 miles north of the San Rafael River. This Navajo Sandstone wall faces northeast and is shaded during hot summer afternoons. From "Desert Rock: Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell" by Eric Bjornstad, published by Chockstone Press, Inc. Conifer, Colorado.
Dylan Wall near San Rafael River Campground and Swinging Bridge. How to get there: From Interstate 70 exit on 129, 29 miles west of Green River. Drive on the Cottonwood Wash Road for 3 miles before turning north and dropping down the wash. Follow this road for 20 miles from I-70 to the wash. Travel 20 miles to the San Rafael River and BLM Campground. Cross the river on a new bridge next to Swinging Bridge and travel to the Buckhorn Wash road Junction. Turn east on the Mexican Mountain Road and follow the river's north bank for 1.8 miles to the top of a steep hill. Turn left and drive .1 mile to a parking area. The Dylan Wall is the sandstone cliff to the northwest. From "Rock Climbing Utah," by Stuart M. Green, published by Falcon.
The Lightbulb (James' Tower) near San Rafael River Campground and Swinging Bridge.
This is an amazing 185-foot tower with a light bulb shaped top. How to get there: Follow directions to Dylan Wall, except drive up the road from the bridge about .8 mile and look for the tower to the west. Continue up the road a short distance to a parking area on the left. Hike onto a rocky ridge and contour right into a deep side-canyon. Continue up and left to an unobvious break in the lower cliff that leads to a flat bench. Walk south on the bench and scramble up bouldery talus slopes below the tower to its base. Approach time 30- 45 minutes. From "Rock Climbing Utah," by Stuart M. Green, published by Falcon.

Mexican Mountain. From milepost 137 on I-70, Mexican Mountain, to the right, is the highest landform and has a flat "hat box" summit. There are many formations to climb in this area: including Lone Rock and Devil's Monument. From "Desert Rock: Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell" by Eric Bjornstad, published by Chockstone Press, Inc. Conifer, Colorado.

San Rafael South

San Rafael Knob is the highest point in the San Rafael Swell and is accessed from I-70 exit 114 the Moore Cutoff Road

Head of Sinbad South is the region from I-70 to Family Butte. Here climb the Broken Cross, Turkey Tower and Family Butte (known as Seven Sisters).

Temple Mountain area includes Temple Mountain, Mystery Slings Variation and Little Erma. From "Desert Rock: Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell" by Eric Bjornstad, published by Chockstone Press, Inc. Conifer Colorado.

San Rafael Swell: Canyoneering
There are many canyoneering adventures in the Swell. Consult a complete guide for more information. Here's a small sampling of locations.

Little Wildhorse and Bell Canyons near Goblin Valley State Park. These slot canyons are hiker's favorites. They are easily accessed from the road and the hike loops.

Ice climbing is becoming popular near Joe's Valley Reservoir and in Price Canyon.